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Very good quality Hitachi from the year 1980, with 16cm woofers and 5cm tweeters.

Hitachi TRK-8190

The TRK-8190 is a beautiful and high-quality ghettoblaster from Hitachi. And it's packed with features....more than most so-called holy grails. It was manufactured in 1980, when Hitachis were still top quality.

It measures approximately 54cm wide and 30cm tall. Power output is "16 watts max" according to the decal on the tape door...... but the service manual says it's really only 5 watts per channel at 10% total harmonic distortion. The woofers are 16cm diameter, 2.8 ohm, part number 5407422. The tweeters are 5cm diameter, 4 ohm, part number 5401122. The tape deck's frequency response with chrome tape is 50Hz to 14kHz. Wow and flutter is 0.06%. The Line Input jack has a sensitivity of 100 mV and an impedance of 50 Kohms.

The TRK-8190E model, shown below, was sold in Europe, and is set for 220 or 240 volts. The TRK-8190H model was sold in North America and is rated for 120 volts. The E model has a black tuner dial, while the H model has a brushed aluminum dial. And there's another version called the TRK-8290 Perdisco, which has all the same features plus the ability to connect a wireless FM microphone.

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The service manual can be purchased HERE(external link). This boombox has a 3-part chassis. The rear panel, an inner chassis with all the electronics, and the front panel. Diassembly steps:

  • 1) Fully remove all 7 screws so they won't crack the posts while you're pulling on the rear panel.
  • 2) Pull the rear panel from its bottom edge. The top edge will seem stuck like there's a hidden screw, but there isn't. Just keep pulling on the bottom edge, and the top will eventually snap free.
  • 3) There are 4 wires you need to pull, between the rear panel and the circuit board.
  • 4) To remove the inner chassis, simply eject the tape door and pull the chassis away from the front case (it is free-floating, there are no additional screws). But first, there are a couple wires on the bottom edge of the circuit board that go to the DRPS buttons on the front case — Make sure they have enough slack before pulling the chassis away.
  • 5) When re-assembling, make sure the Loudness button pops up into the upper control panel. Sometimes it will fall off if you are clumsy.
  • 6) There are snaps/slots intended to mate the upper control panel with the rear panel. Push down on the control panel while you're fitting the rear panel, so that the slots engage.


Created by Reli. Last Modification: Thursday 13 of June, 2019 22:40:26 GMT by Reli.
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